Balaji

Aside from the ritualistic tradition of kicking politicians to the curb, Washington DC is not a city typically associated with the exorcism of evil spirits. However, for those of us that did grow up in the region there is a slightly different outlook. Invariably there was that one-day, when you were entirely too young, that your mother showed up from the video store brandishing a copy of “The Exorcist.”
Watching the movie, of course, created a sleepless world for the next eight to ten weeks. Every time you appeared to be cruising back to normalcy you would inevitably find yourself close to 36th and M street and that monstrous stairs case. This would conjure up horrible reminders of projectile vomit, young girls stabbing themselves in the crotch with letter openers, and priests tumbling to their deaths.
Maybe I was looking for therapy. Maybe it was just a typical human curiosity. Regardless, when I heard about the Hindu temple notorious for its demon exorcisms, it was the Washingtonian in me that said ‘let’s go.’


The town Balaji is in between Jaipur and Agra just inside the state of Rajasthan. When I purchased my bus ticket for the four-hour trip the man behind the small wooden box of a desk raised his eyebrows.
“You are first tourist to buy ticket to Balaji.” Ever.
At first glance the Balaji looks like any of the thousands of small Indian towns that are attached to bus stands. Carts selling fried snacks, people who are not in the least bit bashful about staring at strange white faces, and small shrines dedicated to any of a number of Hindu gods dot the desert streets. Post-exploration the initial assumption stands up. Except on those days when a family brings a loved one to have an evil spirit exorcised.
Reportedly the scene is something like a festival. The Hindu community comes out in full and it is impossible to even get close to the temple. Large screens broadcast the ritual that takes place inside to those who cannot get better seats.
If only I had been so lucky to see that sight. Unfortunately, there was no demon exorcism on the schedule for my day in Balaji. But after pushing through a rather typical temple whose only point of interest was the spattering of errant rats I came to what could only have been the venue of the exorcisms.


Imagine a Hindu themed miniature golf course minus the balls, holes, and sticks. Fiberglass statues of Gods and prominent Hindu figures, including a mountain home for Shiva, create the ambiance. Hanuman appears as fifteen-foot tall statue, and as a much smaller kingly figure surrounded by larger-than-life dancing monkey companions. Each of the depictions of the gods seems so glib it was a surprise to see worshippers paying their respects.
Other than the truly bizarre temple, Balaji has little to offer. The four-hour bus ride was a bit cruel considering the rewards but there is no denying that operation ‘what the fuck’ was a success. Don’t look for this one to start turning up on any destination hot lists any time soon.